How Abercrombie & Fitch constructed a multi-billion-dollar style empire on exclusion

How Abercrombie & Fitch built a multi-billion-dollar fashion empire on exclusion

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Written by Oscar Holland, CNN

Abercrombie & Fitch’s website is, today, awash with Gen-Z-friendly nods to diversity and inclusion. There are people of color, sizes up to 3XL and even a Pride-themed collection featuring “gender inclusive” rainbow tees. The brand’s Instagram account, meanwhile, proudly promotes models in wheelchairs, stories of body-positivity and statements of LGBTQ solidarity.

Yet, barely disguised in the label’s new tagline, “This is #AbercrombieToday,” is an admission that there is a yesterday it would rather we forget.

Any chance of that has been effectively dashed by Netflix’s new documentary “White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch,” which charts Abercrombie’s transformation from forgotten 19th-century outdoors retailer to the epitome of late-’90s teen fashion. Through interviews with former models, recruiters, store workers and executives, the 88-minute film suggests that appearing cool, attractive and White wasn’t just an exercise in branding: it was…

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